DISCLAIMER - While
the crew did this trip, it was the reverse of what is written here
This narrative was written on the Illinois to California run, taken in July,
2009.
Our
trip started today with a ride down to the new Amtrak station
just outside the Milwaukee airport.
Here we caught the
Hiawatha, Amtrak service between Milwaukee and Chicago. And
there certainly were a lot of people for an 11 AM train on a
Saturday. There were many more people than Barb or I had
anticipated. The station is quite nice, with a Frank Lloyd
Wright design, which blends into the landscape. After an
uneventful ride, we arrived at the madhouse of Chicago’s Union
Station. Apparently quite a few people are taking trains these
days, so there were lines and crowds in abundance. We were
finally able to discover Amtrak’s waiting room and the large
number of people waiting to board train #5, the California
Zephyr. As we had no tickets, we had to wait to get in contact
with Burt Hermey, President of California Zephyr Railcar
Charters, Inc., and were hustled out a side door to the Silver
Solarium.
What a sight! The neon tail-sign, the rounded end,
the big rear center marker light; oh this was so neat. We
discovered that until Denver, Barb and I were two of six people
on the three cars; with a staff of nine! In Denver, we would
be meeting my old friend Chris Skow and his group. So we felt
pretty pampered to say the least. The three private cars are
attached to the rear of the regularly scheduled Amtrak run. So
first a word on the cars. We’ll start from the rear. The last
car in the train is the Silver Solarium, one of six domed
observation cars built by Budd in 1948.
It
features a rounded end with lounge, bar in the depressed
center,
and sleeping compartments for 11. The car was extensively
refurbished and has its own climate control, fresh water,
[minimal] cooking, and toilet facilities.
Next is the Silver Rapids, a sleeper with room
for 6
double
compartments, and 8 single roomettes. The doubles have their
own toilet and shower facilities, and the singles share a
shower. The last of the three car set was the Silver Lariat.
This is another vista-dome car and is the primary dining area.
There is a galley, seating for 24 in the dome, and an additional
42 people on the main level. It too, was extensively
refurbished to its original condition.
We
pulled out of Chicago 20 minutes late, and headed west. Soon
the yards and industry of Chicago were behind us, and we flashed
past undulating hills and back roads in the green Illinois
prairie. It was a treat to sit in the dome, watch the scenery
pass, and just relax, take in the sights and feel the sway of
the car on the rails. And to know that we were riding in a
piece of history, on a route that so many had
traveled.
The hills flew past, and of course, I had to
stick my head out to see passing freight trains.
We crossed the Mississippi river at Burlington,
hanging out the Dutch doors to get the best angle for photos. 
Of course, things started
with drinks and snacks prior to dinner. As I said, we were
pampered!
As the Iowa countryside rolled past, we were
chimed to dinner, and ate in the dome of the Silver Lariat while
the sun set ahead of us.
Retiring to the Solarium dome, we watched the
night sky and the small towns go past. While we were at dinner,
our berths in the Solarium drawing room had been made up. And
Barb and I settled in for a night of slumber as the miles
clicked off. There is nothing quite like sleeping on a train.
Overnight
we crossed into Mountain time, so Barb and I were up earlier
than usual. Again, just sitting in the dome with a cup of
coffee was great. The flat plains of eastern Colorado flew past
and we found ourselves in Denver’s Union Station. This was
another point to take on fuel, car water and just get out and
stretch our legs on solid ground. Chris and his tour group
boarded, and introductions were made all around. I hope I
remember everyone’s names!
Now
the scenery got interesting, as we climbed through the front
range, into the Rockies. Tight turns and steep grades made for
some exciting photography. Soon we were at the 6.2 mile Moffat
Tunnel, and then into the ski area of Winter Park.
We followed the Colorado River for
quite some time,
through canyons, across bridges, and through tunnels. It was
exciting, and every
direction
you looked was another breathtaking view. We would break out
into lush grassland, rimmed with rocky cliffs, and then around
the next corner, we'd be back in a canyon with rushing water and
tight clearances.
The scenery continued, as we
followed I-76, which in turn followed old US 40 through Glen
Canyon, Purportedly the most expensive freeway section in the
country, the roads are elevated in the canyon. There were
plenty of people rafting and swimming on the river, and we were
welcomed with lots of hand waving and the brunt of several
mooning
sessions.
None of us seems to understand the allure of this practice, but
it goes on.
We were stopped twice due to
detector alarms, but both proved to be integrity failure
alarms. Detectors read the axles and bearings, looking for hot
boxes, which can cause truck set failures and car fires. Barb
and I joined Chris and his wife Debbie for dinner and we caught
up on the past few years. In the early evening we were west of
Grand Junction, in time to see the light play on the red rocks
and cliffs of the appropriately named Ruby Canyon. Time for our
second night on the train, as we passed in the dark through Salt
Lake City and into Nevada.
We
stayed in San Francisco for an additional day. Other than
just about getting into an accident crossing the Oakland Bay
Bridge, things were uneventful. Except it was quite
warm
for the Bay area. I fact, I got a bit sun burned.
So there were the usual sights -
Coit Tower, the TransAmerica Building and of course, the Buena
Vista, where the Irish Coffee was invented. Did we
partake? Well, yea! We had to sample the original.
There was a Mexican tall ship in port, so the first night, to
celebrate, we were treated to fireworks from our room on the
39th floor of the Hilton.
We
took the ferry across to Sausalito, for no other reason than to
get a good view of Alcatraz. We ate lunch a little
waterfront bistro, and after returning, then wandered down to
Fisherman's Wharf and 
Ghirardelli
Square. To be perfectly honest, I've seen enough T-short
shops to last me several lifetimes!.
Tomorrow we will fly home, having
memories of a great trip, some extraordinary historic railcars,
and a staff and crew that can't be beat.
